Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from Pityrosporum ovale; it was discovered a few years ago, possibly by chance, to be beneficial in acne. Italian and UK authors have demonstrated in open studies that the drug is effective in acne, even in very severe acne. More recently this author's department showed it to be better than placebo.
The same team has also demonstrated that the drug is quite effective, almost as much so as tetracycline. (It needs however to be emphasized that in this study it was not possible to include any placebo). A large multinational trial showed azelaic acid to be as effective as benzoyl peroxide, retinoic acid and tetracycline. Note that in this large study there were no controls.
In the laboratory azelaic acid reduces 5-areductase activity but there is no convincing evidence in vivo that the drug reduces the sebum excretion rate.
Studies of the effect of azelaic acid on follicular casts have not been performed but clinical measurement shows that it reduces the number of noninflamed lesions. A possible mechanism for this clinical observation is the change in keratohyalin granules, which are morphological markers of filaggrin, the keratin aggregating protein.
Azelaic acid reduces free fatty acids by about 20 per cent but this effect could be less than real since azelaic acid is itself a fatty acid and is sampled when collecting the skin surface lipids. Azelaic acid reduces P. acnes by 1 log cycle; this is less than the effect seen with benzoyl peroxide but of the same order as that observed with oral tetracycline 1 g/day. Azelaic acid reduces Staph, epidermidis by 2-3 log cycles , an effect very similar to that seen with benzoyl peroxide and with oral antibiotics. However, in contrast to oral antibiotics, in which Staph, epidermidis resistance occurs within 2-3 weeks, no such resistance occurs in azelaic acid treated patients nor in patients receiving benzoyl peroxide.
Azelaic acid is well tolerated and does not bleach the patient's clothes.