Retinoic acid
Retinoic acid (tretinoin), like benzoyl peroxide, has been available for at least twenty years, initially as an ointment which was unsuitable for patients with acne but, in the last fifteen years, as highly acceptable cosmetic preparations, in particular as a gel and a cream (usually in a concentration of 0.025 per cent to 0.05 per cent). The drug is especially helpful in reducing the number of noninflamed lesions, which has been demonstrated in clinical studies and by using the follicular cast technique as a measure of the number of microcomedones.
Since noninflamed lesions are responsible for the subsequent development of some inflamed lesions, retinoic acid indirectly suppresses the number of inflamed lesions. The mechanism of the drug has been studied predominantly in terms of its role in influencing comedogenesis.
Secondary to its effect on comedogenesis, retinoic acid possibly reduces ductal P. acnes, presumably because it renders the duct environment alien to the growth of P. acnes.
Limited studies in this author's department have shown no effect of retinoic acid on sebum excretion rate.